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Annapurna Circuit Part 2: Manang to Ghorepani
From Manang, the trek continues to climb in several short stages before a big push over the Thorung La, a high pass at over 5,400m. The route drops quickly to the Kali Gandaki valley and turns south. After 3 days in the valley, we climbed again through a lush side valley to reach Ghorepani in the southern foothills.

Chris on the acclimatisation walk from Gunsang. We ascended to around 4,500m towards the Chulu range. Behind us, the huge north face of Gangapurna dominated the view. We both paid the price for climbing so high the following morning. Day 8: Acclimatisation walk from Gunsang
After the previous day's exertions, we made slow progress from Gunsang to Yak Kharka where a large gathering of trekkers were already comfortably installed in the Gangapurna Hotel. This is a bottleneck on the Circuit where groups bunch up as they approach the pass. Day 9: The Gangapurna Hotel at Yak Kharka
Yak Kharka lies at 4,018m and translates as yak pastures. Sure enough, the grassy hillsides were dotted with the beasts. They cope brilliantly with the altitude but have a bit of a reputation for obstreperous behaviour. Here's a fascinating yak fact: Nepalis only refer to the male animal as a yak; the female is called a nak. Day 9: Domesticated yak
After a very chilly start, the temperature climbed rapidly next morning and we were soon shedding layers. Gangapurna still forms the backdrop as the path skirts the south and west flanks of the Chulu range. We are well above the highest permanently habited settlements here; the Nepalis that run the tea houses close down at the end of the trekking season and descend to a less extreme altitude. Day 10: Jen on the Circuit near Ledtar
On the approach to Thorung Phedi, the final overnight stop before the pass, there is a section of path that traverses a moving landslide. Having crossed it safely (and probably looking more relaxed than I should be), I discover the Nepalis have thoughtfully erected a sign thanking me for not falling to my death. Day 10: Chris makes it safely past the landslide
Reaching Thorung Phedi at 4,540m, the weary trekker who turns to view the route behind him is greeted by this incredible sight. The crumbly looking snow in the foreground is from a recent avalanche and explains why many trekkers could not get over the pass the previous week. Day 10: Avalanche at Thorung Phedi
A welcome sight: Base Camp Lodge at 4,540m. This was a surprisingly well-equipped place which even boasted a satellite phone and a bakery. One appealing feature of the high-altitude lodges is the dining room. In the cold evenings the lodge owner places a bucket of hot coals under the table, and everyone pulls the thick blanket which is draped over the table on to their knees. Result: toasty warm feet. Day 10: Thorung Phedi lodge
It's a 900m climb to the Thorung La, which takes at least 3 hours. The pass can get very windy during the day so many groups are keen to make an early start. Nevertheless, climbing on the icy ground in the dark is not particularly easy, so we opted for a dawn start. Day 11: Sunrise on the Annapurnas
It's a steep and unrelenting trudge to begin with, but when the first rays of sun hit your back it really lifts your spirits. After going through a rough patch a few days beforehand, I was now coping well with the altitude. We allowed ourselves an extra day to acclimatise compared to most groups and I think this certainly helped on the climb to the Thorung La. Day 11: Jen on the climb to the pass
The distant figure of Jen is dwarfed by the surrounding mountains as we cross the snow-covered moraines towards the pass. We are now above 5,000m and the temperature is bitingly cold - taking a glove off to adjust the camera is not a pleasant experience! Day 11: Endless snow
Made it! The obligatory photo on top of the Thorung La at 5416m. My high point was somewhere around 5450m, the closest available loo spot with some privacy! We were very lucky to get these views as we later discovered that the previous day had been a virtual whiteout. Ahead are the mountains of western Nepal across the Kali Gandaki valley. Day 11: On the Thorung La (5416m)
After the gruelling descent to Muktinath, we were glad of the cold beer in the Bob Marley Hotel (not the most authentically Nepali of lodges). This was the view from our hotel balcony that evening just before sunset. Day 11: Evening light at Muktinath
Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the world's 7th highest mountain, towers over the rooftops of Muktinath. The red building in the centre foreground is the gompa or Buddhist temple. Muktinath is a place of pilgrimage for both Hindus and Buddhists. Day 12: Dhaulagiri from Muktinath
It's never too early for shopping. The large numbers of pilgrims passing through Muktinath attracts traders selling traditional Tibetan wares. Textiles seemed to be a speciality here - the ladies sat in the sun with their ricketty old looms weaving colourful scarves, hats and blankets. Day 12: Traders in Muktinath
Descending from Muktinath on a windy afternoon, we soon reached Jharkot, an old fort village perched attractively on a steep, rocky spur. At first sight this may appear a barren and inhospitable landscape, but the resourceful Nepalis have planted terraced fields below the village. Day 12: Jharkot
Approaching Kagbeni through a desert-like wilderness. Behind Jen, the V-shaped snowy col between Yakawa Kang (left, 6,482m) and Khatung Kang (right, 6,484m) is the Thorung La. At this point we have already descended more than 2,000m and are positively wading through the thick air! Day 12: Jen with the distant Thorung La
The town of Kagbeni in the Kali Gandaki valley. This is the view north into Mustang, one of the ancient Himalayan kingdoms which until recently was off-limits to foreigners. Now, tourists can trek all the way to the capital Lo Manthang - for a princely fee! Day 12: View into Mustang from Kagbeni
The broad gravelly floodplain of the Kali Gandaki river can become completely inundated in flash floods, but in spring the river and the trail both meander along the valley bottom. Behind me is the north face of Nilgiri (7,061m). Day 13: Chris in the Kali Gandaki valley
Chris on the trail - ahead of me is the town of Jomsom, administrative capital of the district. It was the only place on the trek where we found an internet café and also has an airfield served by daily flights from Pokhara. Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak (6,920m) tower above the town. Day 13: Trekking towards Jomsom
Muleteers and their animals approach the entrance to Marpha, one of the more prosperous and attractive villages in the Kali Gandaki valley. Day 13: Approach to Marpha
All the major trekking companies use Marpha as a stopover, and the result is a plethora of lodges, restaurants, grocery stores and even bookshops. Marpha is also the start of the walk to the Dhaulagiri icefall, but unfortunately we didn't have time to do this side trip. Rumour has it that the residents suffer penalties if they don't keep the street outside their houses clean! Day 13: The streets of Marpha
A Gurung girl and her baby brother in Marpha. Nepali women usually carry their small children in this manner, as do the women of the Andean highlands in South America. Day 13: Gurung children in Marpha
Around Khobang, the hillsides are covered in pine forests, home to such creatures as the musk deer and Himalayan monal pheasant. Nepal has suffered greatly due to deforestation in the Himalayas which has increased the prevalence of landslides. The forests of the Annapurna Conservation Area receive more protection than most. Day 14: Pine forests near Khobang
Hindu women crossing the river near Khobang on their pilgrimage to Muktinath. Trekkers and pilgrims alike usually hit the trail as early as possible, because the notorious winds pick up mid-morning every day, blowing relentlessly up the Kali Gandaki. Day 14: Pilgrims near Larjung
Our plan had always been to travel quickly down this valley to maximise our chance of reaching the Sanctuary later in our trek, but now my tummy troubles were starting to jeopardise that idea. After little more than an hour's walk I had to stop at a lodge in Khokethanti for another energy drink. I photographed this Nepali girl at the stove, preparing the rice for lunch. Day 14: Preparing lunch
Lete is perhaps the only place on the Annapurna Circuit from where the top of Annapurna I (8,091m) is visible. This is because on the north, east and west sides it is concealed by a ring of outer peaks. The French expedition here in 1950 ultimately placed the first man on the summit, but they spent a great deal of time just trying to find the right mountain! Day 14: Washing day in Lete
For our final night in the valley we stopped at Dana, a village with a properous past. There are many large houses which used to belong to rich merchants, now sadly crumbling. This house is of a more simple rural architecture; the squashes are stored on the stone canopy over the front door. Day 15: Rural house at Dana
Reaching Tatopani, we crossed the Kali Gandaki river and ascended a side valley on a long and brutal climb to Ghorepani. This sight of Nilgiri South (6839m) from the river was our last view up the main valley. Day 15: Nilgiri South from Tatopani
Ghara is a long village strung out along the path. The hillsides either side are very steep but every available square inch of land was being cultivated, and the locals were out in force working in the fields. It was near this point that I contrived to lose our one and only guidebook which seemed like a disaster at the time but turned out to be no big deal! Day 15: On the trail to Ghorepani
Terraces at Chitre near the top of our climb, with Dhaulagiri still just visible in the haze. Corn, barley or fodder is grown in the spring season (the barley is used to make tsampa, the local variety of porridge), and rice in the autumn season after the summer rains. These hills to the south of the Annapurna range are especially productive because they receive more rain in the monsoon. Day 15: Terraces at Chitre

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