Annapurna Circuit Part 1: Besisahar to Manang

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Photo Albums » Nepal - Annapurna 2007 » Annapurna Circuit Part 1: Besisahar to Manang

We chose the Annapurna region for our first trek in Nepal. It is a varied and scenic horseshoe-shaped route which crosses a high pass, the Thorung La, on the north side of the Annapurna massif. The first week of the trek is spent climbing slowly up the Marsyangdi Valley to the town of Manang at 3,500m.

After a short evening walk to Khudi the night before, our first full day of walking began with this suspension bridge across a side valley. The main part of the village is on the far side of the river.

Day 2: Suspension bridge at Khudi

It's possible to catch a colourful local bus to Khudi - this one is making the return journey to Besisahar. Given the state of the road it's not much slower to walk. The road will gradually be extended further up the valley, so the start of the Annapurna Circuit is likely to move with it.

Day 2: The local bus to Khudi

Leaving Bahundanda after breakfast on the third morning of our trek. The village lies on a ridge and there were enticing views of the mountains ahead. I had to perform a quick operation to remove a leaking water bottle from my rucksack, much to the amusement of the officials at the ACAP checkpoint.

Day 3: Bahundanda

Just beyond our second night's stopover in Bahundanda, there's a wonderful viewpoint up the valley overlooking some impressive terraces. A heavy storm the night before had cleared the air and deposited fresh snow on the distant mountains. We are still trekking at below 1,500m here so it's warm enough to grow bananas as well as rice, corn, potatoes and a variety of other crops.

Day 3: Terraces near Bahundanda

The trail crosses the Marsyandgi River again at Syange, seen here on the right. The suspension bridges from this point on were all modern steel structures mainly funded and installed by the Swiss. In other parts of Nepal river crossings can still be very dangerous due to poorly maintained bridges and Tyrolean crossings.

Day 3: Marsyangdi river at Syange

Whenever the weight of my rucksack started to prey on my mind, the sight of a porter coming round a bend on the trail carrying three times as much banished any thought of self-pity pretty swiftly! These guys are tough.

Day 3: Porter near Jagat

As we neared our next stopover, Tal, the valley narrowed and steepened into a gorge with waterfalls such as this one cascading down the bare rock faces, a reminder that the Himalayas is one of the youngest and most dynamic mountain ranges on Earth.

Day 3: Waterfall in Marsyangdi gorge

The foothills of the Annapurna region are the home of the Gurung people. This lady is the grandmother of one of the lodge owners in the village of Karte and was kind enough to let me photograph her. Lodge owners earn a very good wage by Nepali standards and are usually amongst the richest families in any village.

Day 4: Grandmother at Karte

Bagarchap was the scene of major landslide which a few years previously had flattened much of the village and killed several people. There's no sense of danger here now, just the beautiful sight of Lamjung Himal (5,560m) and a glimpse of Annapurna II (7,937m) beyond.

Day 4: Bagarchap and Lamjung Himal

One feature of the Gurung villages are the children playing on the streets, such as this pair in Temang. This is a very isolated village high above the valley bottom and would make a wonderful place to stay overnight.

Day 4: Children at Temang

Temang is situated off the main trail, reached by climbing on a steep path through beautiful woodlands. The elevation gained is rewarded with a friendly welcome at the village and this magnificent panorama, a glimpse of the neighbouring Manaslu massif, about 40km to the east. Manaslu (8,156m) is the world's 8th highest mountain and this is one of the only places on the Annapurna Circuit where it can be seen.

Day 4: Manaslu massif

Our goal had been to reach Chame, but as we descended from Temang in fading light we decided to stop at a closer village, Koto. Here, we spent a very interesting evening round the kitchen fire in our chosen lodge in the company of the local school teacher, drinking rakshi (a local spirit made from grain). Jen took this photo of Annapurna II (7,937m) from her sleeping bag at dawn the following morning.

Day 5: Dawn light on Annapurna II

This highly decorative chorten at the entrance to Chame signalled that we were now in Buddhist country. The Annapurna Circuit crosses not only ecological zones, but cultural and religious ones too.

Day 5: Chorten at Chame

Next morning we saw evidence of recent heavy snowfall, including this huge avalanche near Bhratang. The rainstorm that had passed us on our second night at Bahundanda had deposited a lot of snow further up the valley, forcing many trekkers to turn back. We spoke to a couple descending who had witnessed this avalanche, giving us a graphic description of the flying debris that was blown across their path!

Day 5: Chris at the Avalanche

Between Bhratang and Pisang is one of the most difficult and dangerous stretches of path. First, the valley narrows until the path clings to the side of a gorge, seen behind me in the photo above. Falling rocks are a danger here. When the valley begins to open out again, the heavily eroded slopes are constantly swept by falling rocks and in one or two exposed places, a well-timed sprint is the best means of progress!

Day 5: Marsyangdi gorge

The terrain changed rapidly as we climbed through the 3,000m mark towards Pisang. The valley continued to broaden and the pine forests were soon draped in snow which also lay deeply underfoot. It was a beautiful scene, but the strong afternoon sun rapidly turned the snow to slush, making walking quite difficult.

Day 5: Pine forests in snow

Annapurna II from Upper Pisang. The upper village is older and more traditional than the lower, and far fewer trekkers stay here. Mani walls are a common feature of the mountain villagers - the correct practice is to pass with the wall on your right, spinning the prayer wheels with your right hand.

Day 5: Mani wall in Upper Pisang

Chris and Jen at another mani wall near the beginning of the high route to Ghyaru. This is an optional diversion from the main trail, which gets you up high above the valley and gives sensational views of the mountains. It's the first time the altitude has been noticeable to me.

Day 6: Chris and Jen at a mani wall

The high route climbs steeply to Ghyaru, about an hour above Pisang at around 3,500m. Many groups in Pisang opted to follow the main trail along the river valley, fearing that the heavy snow would have blocked the high route. But the path to Ghyaru climbs south-facing slopes and we encountered no problems.

Day 6: Refreshments at Ghyaru

Jen leaving Ghyaru after our refreshment stop. From here, we had a superb walk along a balcony path which gradually climbed over a shoulder before descending again to the next village, Ngawal. These high villages are smaller and simpler than those on the main trail, and were some of the most charming places we stopped at on the whole route.

Day 6: Jen above Ghyaru

We saw few other trekkers between Ghyaru and Ngawal, but these mountain goats were being herded along the path by their shepherd. Making a living off the land is difficult at this elevation and traditionally the Manangis made their money by trading goods between the Indian lowlands and the high Himalayas.

Day 6: Mountain goats

Other trekkers assemble on a shoulder at around 3,600m, the highest point on today's walk. The views are unsurpassed, looking directly across the valley to the mighty bulk of Annapurna IV (7,525m) as well as up and down it for many, many miles.

Day 6: Trekkers at a viewpoint

The high route from Pisang to Braga is one of the absolute highlights of the Annapurna Circuit. Jen and I take a breather at the shoulder and look back down the Marsyangdi valley. In the distance, a final glimpse of the Manaslu range.

Day 6: Chris and Jen on the high route

At Braga, we followed the advice in our guidebook and took an enforced rest day. We were now trekking at altitudes where the air is so thin that climbing too high, too fast could lead to acute mountain sickness (AMS), a potentially fatal affliction. A gradual ascent with rest days would improve our chances of making it over the Thorung La. This Buddhist chorten lies on the trail between Braga and Manang.

Day 7: Buddhist chorten near Braga

Braga has a very impressive gompa (Buddhist temple). We arrived there early in the morning to witness a puja ceremony where offerings are made to the Gods in return for a blessing. The ceremony can last a long time, with long periods of chanting and offerings of many different kinds of food.

Day 7: Braga gompa

Although this was a designated rest day, in practice that means sleeping at the same altitude on two consecutive nights, and doesn't preclude any activity in between! So we set off for Manang and then continued exploring by climbing a ridge on the opposite side of the valley. The ridge overlooked a frozen lake at the foot of the Gangapurna glacier.

Day 7: Frozen lake

This vulture was one of a number circling around Manang as we climbed the ridge. Deep snow prevented us from climbing far, but we did get the benefit of very close encounters with the vultures, which were using the ridge as a resting place.

Day 7: Himalayan griffon vulture

This photo was taken on our way back to Braga for our second night's stay. Hotel Buddha was one of the most comfortable lodges in Braga and also provided me with my first experience of yak cheese (not so comfortable).

Day 7: Chris in the Manang Valley

The village of Manang lies at around 3,500m and is the largest settlement this side of the pass. It has a range of grocery shops, a small museum and even a cinema. The Manangi people are reknowned traders and are known to run businesses all over Asia.

Day 7: Manang and the route ahead

The Manangis provided our first opportunity for retail therapy. The jewellery sellers cunningly set up their stalls by the side of the trail at the best places for taking photos!

Day 8: Manangi jewellery