Part 3: Tofane, Cristallo and Other Routes

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Photo Albums » Italy - Dolomites 2007 » Part 3: Tofane, Cristallo and Other Routes

A collection of photos from our daily excursions from Cortina to some of the fantastic mountain groups nearby: walks in the Tofane and Nuvolau mountains, an overnight stay at 3000m on the Cristallo ridge and the summit of Punta Fiames.

Two days of generally good weather came an end the following morning as the wind turned to a northerly direction. The cold, combined with our aching bodies, confined us to the campsite and the shops of Cortina in the morning. By lunchtime the sun had reappeared and persuaded us to hop into the car. We drove to a cable car station just below Falzarego and walked up to this stunning viewpoint over the Cinque Torre to the shadowy Tofane group behind.

Tofane and Cinque Torri

Continuing up across fresh snow, Jen approaches the Rifugio Nuvolau at 2574m. Here, we met a group walking the Alta Vie 1, one of two long distance paths across the Dolomites. They seemed to be quite astonished that we should have walked up this mountain after lunch, and even more so when we said we were going to walk back down again!

Approaching Rifugio Nuvolau

From the helipad at Rifugio Nuvolau the views are extensive and astonishing. The mountain shapes look like something out of a fantasy landscape, although of course nothing more than natural processes are at work. The unique geology of the area goes some way to explaining the fantastical forms.

On the helipad!

The serrated outline of Croda da Lago, here perfectly set off in the murky twilight by brightly sunlit clouds. Another late finish, but this time we were determined to self cater even if it meant cooking dinner in the dark - which we did!

Serrated ridge at sunset

Another day and another via ferrata. The weather looked a bit sketchy - grey cloud and that persistant biting wind - so we hatched a plan to do a mainly low level route around Tofana de Rozes. To begin with this involved traversing the hair-raising Sentiero Astaldi, a Grade 1A path with cable protection in places which followed an undercut groove in a cliffside.

The Sentiero Astaldi traverse

You'll notice from this photo that we had neglected to bring any climbing gear this time - which may seem rash, but we still treated all the via ferrata with considerably more caution than some of the Italians. The Sentiero Astaldi, despite appearances, is quite manageable without gear for a reasonably confident ferratist.

Jen on Sentiero Astaldi

Two walkers on the Astaldi path; the strata and coloration of the rocks is clearly visible here. In the distance is our old friend the Punta Sorapiss (3205m), with whom we had already done battle...

Sorapiss from the Astaldi path

Below Tofana di Rozes

Still with a few miles of descent ahead of us and no convenient cable car options, we set off down through the pine and fir woods. Just before the views disappeared completely, I grabbed this photo of the Croda da Lago, the same serrated ridge we had seen from a different angle the previous evening.

The Croda da Lago ridge

As sunset approached the mountains lit up like shining beacons one by one. Here, Punta Sorapiss, the nearest peak, is hogging the limelight.

Dolomiti peaks at sunset

Much to our relief, the following day brought absolutely perfect weather. We headed for one of the nearest via ferrate routes to Cortina and here is a photo of the town from the midway point of the climb.

Cortina d'Ampezzo

The chance to have a breather on a sunbaked ledge wasn't going to be passed on, particularly after a grueling climb up a cold wall. The route continues up the rocks in the top right.

The Tofane Group from Fiames

Jen has made a start while I wait patiently at the foot of the cliff (well, someone has to retrieve the camera!) This section of the route had a mixture of iron ladders in the steepest parts and cables elsewhere. The route is called Via Ferrata Strobel and it's a grade 3B.

Jen and Chris on VF Strobel

Jen makes it look easy on Via Ferrata Strobel. In the valley behind her, Cortina d'Ampezzo.

Jen on VF Strobel

And here is that small peak, Punta Fiames at 2240m. Behind me is the imposing bulk of the Tofane Group to the west. This was the end of the climbing for the day and also the time to nosh lunch in the sun.

Chris on Punta Fiames

Approaching the Forcella del Pomagagnon, a small col on the ridge. Here, the path plunges down a steep scree slope which is hidden from view over the back of the col.

Forcella del Pomagagnon

Jen running down the scree. Yes, this must be one of the quickest ways of wearing out a pair of boots, but boy is it fun! I don't think the group of Brits further up the slope thought so as we came careering down the slope through the middle of them!

An early morning photo from outside the Rifugio Lorenzi in a notch on the Cristallo ridge. We had slogged up to the refuge the night before (again, we missed the last cable car) and spent a lovely evening there. Next morning, our plans to tackle the ferrata route along the ridge were thwarted by ice underfoot and my dodgy tummy!

Morning at Rifugio Lorenzi

Hidden in the rocks, a relic from the Mountain War (1915-1918). Fortifications like these were built high on the mountains throughout the Dolomites by the warring Italian and Austrian armies. The sentry posts, bunkers, tunnels and artillery posts were manned throughout the year. It is estimated that over 60,000 men lost their lives to avalanches alone.

Cristallo war ruins

The beginning of the VF Ivana Dibona, a long route which follows the main ridge of the Cristallo Group and passes many more fortifications. At the start of the route is the longest via ferrata bridge in the Dolomites. What can't be seen from the photo is all the ice underfoot - we beat a hasty retreat.

Bridge on the VF Dibona